Saturday, December 3, 2011

The Caramel House Interview

Janet arrives with her case of goodies, she’ll be doing a delivery later.  She orders a tea, sits comfy yet poised on a sofa and makes fabulous eye contact.  She is unrehearsed and sometimes stops to search for just the right word.  She has a genuine presence, without a hint of pretense. (And I’m quickly learning that to describe a dessert artisan is to describe the dessert they specialize in.)

In her previous life Janet Shulman subbed at Wash U and wrote/taught a newspaper curriculum for children at Forsyth School.  On the bucket list was getting her masters, which, as such a diligent and passionate student, was done in record time.  All this was done with the hopes of getting on to teach more at Wash U, which never happened.  If it had, we would never have had this conversation…thank you Wash U.


Looking for a way to supplement income and being quite the domestic, (cross stitching, dinner party throwing, gardening, and big shocker…COOKING) she looked for things she did well and was passionate about.  She also was looking for something that wasn’t already being done by everybody else.  Eventually cooking won out.  The blondies, triple threat brownies, and granola were a hit with the ladies at the Women’s Exchange (the place that let her rent kitchen time).  However, a recent retiree had left a caramel void in their lives.  “Can you make caramels like she did?” was the question.  Ever the eager volunteer, her “can do” spirit could not be silenced!  “Sure” was the reply.  “I mean, how hard can it be?” she thought to herself.  “I’ve got grandma’s recipe and The Joy of Cooking to help me through.”   Well, as fabulous a cook as grandma was, the recipe didn’t work for Janet.  On top of that, the first three paragraphs of the caramel chapter in The Joy of Cooking spoke of heat and humidity being the mortal enemies of caramel­--not good.  And neither were the first attempts.  Janet’s description of this phase was very colorful and included the words “major disaster”.   At this point in the story I already knew she would succeed.  Not just because I’m nibbling on the success as I write this, but because the word “driven” seems to be laced through the story of her life.


In response to the famous question, “Which is your favorite?” she laughs and says, “I love them all, that’s why I make them”.  In truth, she cooks for the public as she would for her own family.  That’s why you’ll find no additives, preservatives or stabilizers.  What you will find are things she uses in her own home while cooking for her family.   Lockhead vanilla, Schlafy’s pale ale, Gus’ pretzels and like any good mom…bacon.  She chooses real ingredients, not powdered and canned.  I didn’t know real butter and cream make the pot boil up very high, so you have to make a smaller batch.  The fake stuff simmers so you can make a huge batch.  I also didn’t know that’s why some caramels are hard and others are soft, real ingredients make soft caramels.  That has forced a choice on her part.  The choice however, is clear.  Small batch, hand cut.  No, they are not flawless looking little clones.  But now is one of the moments Janet stops to reflect before speaking.  She closes her eyes before looking directly at me and stating, “But you can taste the love…  And that’s how I want it.”


There is plenty of love to go around in that heart.  Love of family.  I heard stories of how cooking, and therefore food, drew and still draw them together.  Janet speaks of how she hopes these caramels spark simple conversations in homes that need them.  Love of food, duh.  Love of St. Louis, all the local things she loves and supports.  Love of neighbor,  she volunteers so much I almost wonder if this is a charity disguised as a business so she has more ways to do more for others.  And not without self sacrifice.  She’s working overtime lately and caramel making can be downright perilous; I saw some burns and cuts for myself.  All out of love.  And as I nibble on my vanilla piece, I’m not sure if  I taste
her love of cooking or my love of caramel.

Janet’s life has had some distinct “aha” moments.  The day her caramels took over all baking, and caused a website overhaul.  The day she realized she’d figured out how to make caramel in St. Louis.  The baseball game that gave her the answer to “What’s missing from the beer caramel?”.  As she grows I hope the “aha” moments continue.  New flavors and a new line of sauces are in the works as we speak and she has just launched at some new locations (listed below).  A word of advice.  With all the love in the air, when you run into these hand wrapped little pieces of “aha”, be prepared to say “I Love You Too!”

                     

 Stay Sweet,
La Confectionista

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